Liguria Archives - Undiscovered Italy

Q&A: Anthony Vietri of Va La Vineyards

Mike Madaio Campania, Liguria, Piedmont, _reD April 17, 2017December 14, 2017nebbiolo 2 Comments

As much as I love all things Italy, especially with regards to food & drink, there’s also something abundantly Italian about supporting and utilizing local purveyors, regardless of nationality. The idea of shipping some delicacy halfway across the world, on the other hand, seems to go against the core principles of Italian food culture – local, fresh, seasonal.

This is the circuitous way of saying I support east coast wineries as much as possible, even if my vinous heart lies in Italy. Thankfully, there’s one Southeastern PA vintner – Anthony Vietri – who can offer the best of both worlds. Nestled in the heart of Kennett Square mushroom country (which produces the vast majority of US-grown fungi), Vietri’s Va La Vineyards grows mostly Italian varietals while carrying on the winemaking traditions of his family.

For a more detailed background on the winery, I highly suggest reading Jeff Alexanders wonderful piece, “Grapes and Ghosts of Chester County Wine Country,” which we published here at Undiscovered Italy last week. (Seriously, go. I’ll wait.)

As for now – we recently caught up with Vietri to ask him a little more about his Italian heritage, and how it influences his winemaking and beyond. His responses follow:

Where is your family from in Italy?
My maternal family is from Liguria & Piemonte (Giusvalla+ Malvicino). My paternal family is from Campania (Vietri sul Mare).

What are some of your favorite characteristics of each area?
The food is just wonderful. Wild mushrooms, truffles, chestnuts, and wild game in the north, and the fish, incredible fruits, vegetables, and crystal clear waters in Campania.

What are some of the traditions you still honor from this area and your family?
All of our cooking, although we lean toward the northern influences. Our farming is heavily focused on Piedmontese varieties, chestnuts, etc.

Describe an undiscovered Italian wine region you love.
I lived for a while in a village called Riomaggiore, in Liguria, before there was a road for cars, and I very much loved it there. At the time (1980s), it was still the 19th century. Folks hung from ropes to pick some of the grapes on the cliff terraces. Every morning women would scale the steep hillsides with baskets balanced on their heads, filled with fruit, wine, cheeses, and bread for the men tending to the vines on the terraces.

How about some undiscovered Italian foods ?
Strangely enough, my maternal family was big into Mate, because some of our folk had migrated to Argentina and brought this custom back with them. They foraged wild greens to make it. They also made a sheep cheese called formagiatto, which I remember hanging in a bag over the sink whenever I washed my hands. Also, as farmers, the family foraged a lot, and ate a lot of small wild birds on polenta. To this day, we love to pick a wild green in the spring called poke, which we serve scrambled into eggs or in omelets.

What’s a favorite food pairing with one of your wines?
I love to have La Prima Donna with wild local goose, and oyster mushrooms. Silk with prosciutto crudo, or fresh warm bread dipped in sauce cooking on the stove. Mahogany with lamb chops from Meadowset Farms in Landenberg, PA. Roasted rabbit, and chestnuts from our yard with Cedar. Sorry, I could go on all day…

You grow many Italian grapes (including some rare ones). Were you inspired to do this because of your heritage or because you felt they were best suited to this climate?
Both I suppose, but that is a very long story!

Which grape has surprised you most?
I love all of our babies, but to be honest I would have to say that out of all the varieties that we have grown, Nebbiolo is the one that truly haunts me.

Photos by Jeff Alexander

Grapes and Ghosts of Chester County

Mike Madaio Campania, Liguria, Piedmont April 10, 2017April 10, 2017nebbiolo 1 Comment

This article, written by fellow wine writer and friend Jeff Alexander, was originally posted September 28, 2011 on the now-defunct Examiner.com. As I am currently working on an updated interview with Va La’s Anthony Vietri, it seemed a good time to resurrect this wonderful piece from failed website purgatory. Some of the details have changed but the essence remains the same… Enjoy! ~ MM

The email message is simple. It makes me smile. Still does. The note is a response to an inquiry – my request to visit a Chester County winery I’d heard the good word on, repeatedly. It is brief, honest and bereft of showbiz.

“My name is Anthony and I farm the wines here. We’re not really comfortable talking about ourselves, but I would like to meet you and say hello. I am unfortunately chained to my tractors most every day.”

Already, I like this winemaker. It is what he didn’t say in those three sentences. This guy is no absentee owner with a gilded checkbook. He’s about action and dirt.

I am thankful to find that, in person, Anthony Vietri is willing to talk about himself, his family and his history with the farm-vineyard tucked into a residential area of Avondale. He appears in the upstairs tasting room of the charming, homey barn that houses the public space of the winery, covered in black: Long sleeves, pants and broad rim hat despite the late summer heat. The infrequent breeze through the door offers a thick notion of manure from an adjacent lot. Welcome to mushroom country, home of Va La Vineyards.

Vietri is a benevolently intense grower whose passion for the business is palpable – as any observer to his 10-minute ramble about specialized row tractors can validate. Trailing his gently modulated voice, he walks among ranks of grapes and recalls the multiple generations of family who worked the farm, purchased in 1928, after immigrating from the tiny Italian village called Giusvalla (which is Liguria, northwest of Genoa near the Piedmont border). They were laborers who landed in the greater Wilmington area to risk their lives manufacturing gunpowder and, later, transitioned to mushroom farming, a heritage they imported from the homeland.

The tale of his teenage winery is one of trial and error. The first 15 years were dedicated to planting, cultivating and sussing out which vines were happy in specific areas of the vineyard. “The difficult part about this is it will never be finished in my lifetime,” Vietri laments when describing his experiments with a variety of grape clones, root stocks and approaches to planting. “You just keep getting better and better and refining it.”

Va La has six-plus acres of vines yielding about 25 different varieties including some uncommon grapes like Charbono, Malvasia and Lagrein. More than a couple staffers tout the terroir of the site that draws from the mineral riches and micro-climates blessing the plot. At the highest point, a hilly nob, the land drops off in four directions to constitute a geological booty of rock-filled clay soils well suited for grapes.

Another factor is the steamy fog that emanates from a compost lot next door and drifts over the vineyard. Dubbed “the ghost” by the Va La crew, Vietri claims immeasurable benefit from its temperature-leveling effect. Case in point: The Nebbiolo grape, a lover of slopes and fog, thrives at Va La. “Nebbiolo is planted all over the world and it fails everywhere. It doesn’t even work in Italy,” said Vietri. Almost disbelievingly, he confirmed, “It loves this soil, it loves [the manure-induced phantasm].”

Stopping occasionally to clap away thieving birds that plague his vines, Vietri expounds on the winery’s portfolio. “We essentially make four wines [Silk, Prima Donna, Cedar and Mahogany]… they’re made in different amounts, which makes it difficult because we didn’t just divide the vineyard up four ways and say, ‘OK, equal parts.’ It’s about the soils, the declination to the sun, how the vines grow… They’re separate personalities and they make four completely different wines.”

The serious, painstakingly honed wines are the primary draw at Va La, though the supporting touches shouldn’t be overlooked. Expect a cheery and knowledgeable staff with a flair for cheekiness (a once-over of the website illustrates this point). Food is a central theme and tastings are complimented by locally produced cheeses and chocolate. The Wood Fired Pizza Truck is a regular on site, with customized pies to match the wines. Overall, the apparent intention is to make the visitor feel welcome to relax with good eats, friends and the surroundings – even past closing time if there’s a sunset to ooh over or a bottle to tap. As a bonus, the winery steers busloads of bachelorette partiers – and others of that stripe – elsewhere.

Va La’s bottlings, available solely at the winery, are micro-produced – less than 750 cases annually – and made for food. I sampled them all and have chosen a couple to spotlight here. I’ll also note that my friend and I enjoyed the Cedar and Mahogany selections with our truck-fired pizza wedges, and I purchased a bottle of the latter to cellar at home – which I expect to enhance the payoff.

2009 La Prima Donna “White Label” I loved this zingy, delicious white. During fermentation, Vietri kept the skins – which are red – in the juice for about three weeks, which imbued a golden, almost orange hue he referred to as vin orange. “Makes a much more rich wine,” noted Vietri. “I grew up making whites that way…I don’t care that it’s not clear and white and all that.” This is a standout, an alive and invigorating wine that should appeal to anyone who appreciates a racier style or is looking to take a walk away from the mild side. A blend of Fruliano, Malvasia Bianco, Petit Manseng, Pinot Grigio and Viognier.

2008 Silk This barely tannic lovely is the beneficiary of a gentle process. The grapes – Barbera, Corvina, Carmine, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Nebbiolo – aren’t pressed. Rather, they’re allowed to crush under their own weight in order to minimize tannic infusion from seed and stem damage. The result is a complex wine with a rich aroma, spice and a slight, pleasant funk that will blow off with some air. Aged in stainless steel then briefly kept in oak, it’s smooth as advertised, light and nearly pink. Silk is best when slightly chilled and decanted for an hour or two. Its gentle acidity would fare well with a Thanksgiving spread, fried chicken or fish in a pan.

In spirit, Va La is about “passing it on.” It’s word of mouth, generation to generation. As the wine farmer said, “Everything’s just a constant improvement.” He bottles that notion, year over year, and the staff hand sells it, one on one, taking time to explain the off-color white and the esoteric grapes. Visitors can buy into it or not. It hardly seems to matter as demand outpaces supply. Anthony Vietri will continue to work his land, obsessing over the leaf canopy, fiddling with petite, jerry-rigged tractors and pacing the lanes between his vines. Look closely and you’ll spot him, the optimist man in black, lording over the grapes he knows are meant for Chester County.

Photos via Va La’s Facebook Page

Pairing Pesto

Mike Madaio Liguria, _reD August 6, 2013December 14, 2017vermentino 1 Comment

One of my absolute favorite things about summer is fresh basil from the garden. I use it widely, but mostly with fresh tomato sauce, pizza, sandwiches, and, of course, pesto. But, it’s also getting to be that time of year when I notice that my basil plants are getting a bit old and tough, and that they probably should have been harvested weeks ago. Luckily, it’s not too late. Though using young, soft leaves that are shorter than three inches at the spine is best for authentic Genovese pesto, giving older leaves a quick blanch and soak in ice water can still bring deliciousness. (If you’re in the Philly area, you might also check out my Great Pesto Challenge piece over at Small Food.)

Pairing pesto with wine can be difficult. (For clarity, we are talking about a traditional pesto of basil, garlic, pine nuts, EVOO and Parmesan.) The sauce is both pungent, with assertive flavors from the garlic and cheese, and delicate, as basil has quite a bit of nuance. Generally, whether looking for white or red wine, young, fruity, aromatic wines are far better than anything aged, overripe, oaky, or flabby. Good pesto is bright and fresh, so you want to find a wine that exhibits similar traits. Of course, another key consideration is what you are serving with the dish. A simple pasta dish dressed with pesto, for example, will probably work better with a white wine, but the addition of heartier ingredients such as sausage or tomatoes make red a viable option.

As is the case for most Italian food, the safest bet with any pairing is to follow the rule “if it grows together, it goes together”. Genoa, pesto’s homeland, is in Liguria, a small region on the Mediterranean coast just northwest of Tuscany. The indigenous white grape here is Vermentino, which makes lovely wines that offer rich flavors of tropical fruit but also bring great acidity, matching the dual personality of its sister sauce. Ligurian Vermentino is not exactly easy to come by in our area, but Sardinia’s Argiolas makes an excellent option – Costamolino ($14.99) – which is widely available and delicious for the price. Of course, other aromatic northern Italian whites can also work well, including Ligurian Pigato and Bianchetto Genovese, plus Arneis, Gavi and Soave.

On the red side, we can look to the simple red wines of neighboring regions Tuscany and Piedmont for good pesto partners. Think a young, inexpensive Chianti or Barbera that is bright and fruity, with perhaps a touch of earth.

If Italian wine is not your thing, we can use the same principles to pair international varieties to the sauce. Chardonnay’s tendency to be oaky and buttery, for example, means it is probably worth avoiding, unless you know you are getting an acidic, un-oaked version. Sauvignon Blanc, on the other hand, has that bright, herbal character that could work here. Southbank Estate Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, for example, features a strong citrus note that could bring out the best of the pungent sauce. Vibrant whites from Northwest Spain, such as Albarino and Godello, are also worthy of consideration. The Martin Codax Albarino ($14.99), which is widely available, has a touch of oak for softness (as the grape can be very austere), but enough acidity to cut through any richness.

New world red wines can be difficult because of their tendency to be ripe, concentrated and oaky, all of which would clash with pesto’s soul. Looking to France, however, could yield dividends, especially young, fresh Pinot Noir, Cru Beaujolais (try a Henry Fessy), or Loire Cab Franc (maybe even one from Long Island), all of which bring great acidity and herbal character. In California, a cool-climate Zinfandel or Pinot Noir with similar characteristics could pair nicely, especially if some meat is involved.

Lastly, let’s not forget about Rose. It goes with everything, especially over the summer. Not much more to say there.

What have you paired with pesto? What worked and what didn’t? Comment below.

Bisson U Pastine 2010

Frank Cipparone Liguria June 30, 2013January 5, 2016bianchetto genovese 0 Comment

Summer is upon us, the next heat wave only an AccuWeather forecast away. Time for those of us who love Italian wine to uncork bracing, acidity-driven whites from the coastal hills. Maybe a Verdicchio from the Adriatic shores, a Tuscan Vermentino or Vernaccia, perhaps Campania’s ancient grapes such as Falanghina, Fiano, or Asprinio. Definitely Sicilian Carricante and Grillo. How about something from Liguria, the maritime arc that runs from the Cinque Terre to the French border?

The problem is that very few Ligurian wines find their way stateside. A Vermentino or Pigato here and there, but what of a varietal such as Bianchetto Genovese? I’d heard of the “little white grape from Genoa”, and it was probably in the field blends I consumed while visiting the region years ago, but that meant that its inherent characteristics were lost in the mix, and remained a mystery.

To find it in a PLCB store was on the order of discovering a 1936 Margaux in your grandfather’s cellar. I’d had two other Bissson wines and was familiar with the name Pierluigi Lugano, but was ignorant of the fact he was the first to produce a monovarietal Bianchetta. His two estates near the Golfo di Tigullio DOC showcase his dedication to preserving indigenous Ligurian grapes. Alongside more recognizable names can be found Albarola, Bosco, and Ciliegiolo. The region’s steep, rocky terrain necessitates all vineyard work be done manually. Bisson wines, both red and white, are fermented and stored in tank to maintain those qualities and specific fruit profiles unique to each varietal.

In local dialect, u pastine is a parcel of land chosen as ideal for viticulture. Lugano hit the mark with his site selection. The nose has a tinge of saltiness, wildflowers, and that breezy, terroir-specific aroma of scrub pine-thyme-fennel Italians refer to as macchia. It’s full bodied for a white, but not in a wood-fueled Chardonnay sense. Richly textured and vaguely tropical sensations of white peaches, pear, and melons are invigorated by bursts of salinity and minerals. Bisson U Pastine 2010 has attitude and a presence that isolates it from the usual shelf hogging suspects that have come to represent Italian white wine. I’d rather have a sip that captures Liguria in a bottle at $21.99 than pay a dollar more for yet another overpriced Pinot Grigio (do the initials S.M. sound familiar?). Not to mention that the latter would have been a pale companion for the plate of sardines grilled with lemon and breadcrumbs accompanied by orzo tossed with lemon oil, toasted pine nuts, and sage from the garden, and a bowl of assorted olives that was devoured al aperto. That and the Bianchetta? Love at first bite.