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Pasta alla Norcina

Mike Madaio Umbria, _reD 0 Comment
Pasta alla Norcina

A silver lining related to the tragedy of recent earthquakes in Central Italy, though devastating, has been the food world’s response to said events, promoting historic local dishes and raising money for the affected towns. I was particularly impressed by the response to my #VirtualSagra post, and immensely enjoyed watching all the photos and stories as cooks around the world made Amatriciana for Amatrice.

Since then, two additional quakes have struck the same area, most notably near the Umbrian hamlet of Norcia. Uniquely located on a wide, flat plain at the base of the Apennine mountains — the central spine of Italy’s mainland and a hotbed of earthquake activity — the town’s position is based on proximity to historically important mountain pass.

Though easy access to the Sibillini National Park has helped build a deserved reputation for scenery and outdoor activities, Norcia is even more famous for its cuisine. A popular area for hunting, it produces some of the finest boar-based salumi (known internationally as norcineria) and truffles in all of Italy.

In keeping with our idea of promoting traditional dishes for the continued #VirtualSagra — such as Rigatoni alla Gricia, the basis for Amatriciana — here we highlight a recipe from Norcia that warrants wider acclaim. I discovered it in a cookbook called Umbrian Home Cooking by Wendy Aulsebrook, the chef and food educator at Antonelli San Marco winery in the Montefalco area. An Australian expat who’s lived in the region for years, Aulsebrook has collected a plethora of everyday recipes from local home cooks, highlighting the simplicity of Italian cooking. Paging through the book, Pasta all Norcina jumped out in particular, well, because of its ingredients. Pork sausage. Truffles. Cream. How could I go wrong?

I was particularly intrigued by a note at the bottom of the recipe, offering the substitution of truffle sauce for the actual tubers. Though rather easy to come by in Umbria, truffles are not exactly abundant in Pennsylvania. My local Wegmans, however, does carry at least two brands of that pesto-like truffle sauce, and I’m always looking for new ways to use it. (My preferred brand is La Rustichella.)

blacktrufflepate

Unsurprisingly, The recipe delivers, producing a rich, hearty pasta perfect for the cooler weather. Obviously not light on calories, it is satisfying without sitting too heavily in the stomach.

In terms of wine pairings, the traditional truffle match in Umbria is the white wine Grechetto, but the addition of sausage here means this lighter quaff probably is not the best choice. Instead I went with a Montefalco Rosso, a blend of Sangiovese and Sagrantino that’s distinctly Umbrian and relatively versatile with food.

RECIPE

Ingredients for 4

Champignon Mushrooms (or another kind) 200g
Garlic clove 1
Black Truffle Spread 2-3 T
Olive Oil 2 T
Italian Pork Sausage, removed from skins 250g
Chili Flakes, pinch
Dry White Wine 100ml
Cream 125ml
Short extruded pasta, such as penne 320g

Technique

  1. Cook pasta to al dente per package directions
  2. Clean mushrooms and chop finely
  3. Cook mushrooms & garlic in pan with 1 T oil, over medium heat for 7-8 minutes, then remove from pan
  4. Cook sausage & chili in same pan with the remaining oil, until sausage is browned, about 10 mins
  5. Add wine and cook until it is evaporated
  6. Add cooked mushrooms
  7. Add cream and heat until the sauce just comes to a simmer
  8. Remove from heat. Stir in truffle paste.
  9. Immediately add cooked pasta to sauce, mixing in a bit of pasta water to desired consistency.

Thanks to Wendy Aulsebrook for the recipe. For those interested in a copy of her cookbook, you can email her via Wendy at Antonellisanmarco.it. And be sure to stop by the winery and kitchen when in Umbria.

Donate to Earthquake Relief

Here are some worthy suggestions for your consideration — every euro counts!

Further Reading

For even more about Norcia’s rich culinary scene, check out Norcia: Gastronomic Delights and Tragic Earthquake on Paradise of Exiles.

Positively Piceno!

Mike Madaio Marche, _reD 2 Comments
Positively Piceno!

Even as the proprietor of a site called Undiscovered Italy, Ascoli Piceno – the southernmost province within Marche – was not particularly high on my list of must-visit Italian locales. Despite off-the-beaten-path cache, it’s simply not on the radar for many Americans. Luckily for me, I befriended a wine importer named Jack who specializes here because his family hails from the region. He also happens to own an apartment in the little hill town of Ripatransone that was, fortuitously, available for my family to use.

Though there’s certainly more of Italy that I haven’t seen than have, I would consider myself relatively well traveled on the boot. Most of the big cities are covered, as well as many of the famous secondary spots, like Tuscany’s Val d’Orcia and the Amalfi Coast. I don’t share this to brag, only to point out the importance of this next statement: I was completely unprepared for the beauty that awaited us in Marche.

From Jack’s rooftop terrace at the top of Ripatransone’s hill, a glance to the left shows blue as far as the eye can see, the lovely azzuro of the Adriatic. To the right looms Gran Sasso, the highest peak in the Apennine mountains that form the country’s spine, looming over the rolling Tuscan-style hills that dot the area that’s been recently ravaged by earthquakes. It’s all here, especially from a culinary perspective. Fresh fish from the sea, mountain meats and cheeses, hillside wines. And gorgeous doesn’t even begin to describe the views.

ripatransone-view

Relishing Ripatransone

Affectionately known as Ripa, it’s a medium-sized hill town, far smaller than an Orvieto or Montepulciano but large enough to be a destination for those passing through the area. Inhabited since prehistoric times, it was first unified as a town in 1096. Though it lacks the grandiose central piazza of more famous countryside towns, strolling the cobbled streets and medieval walls is a lovely pastime, as is pausing at the central cafe for an espresso, pastry or gelato and gazing up at the main cathedral.

And, for those who revel in giant ball of twine or Cadillac Ranch-style attractions, Ripa has its own: il vicolo più stretto d’Italia, the narrowest alley in all of Italy. This tiny little passageway located just off the town’s largest piazza is just 43cm wide at the entrance, narrowing yet further to 38cm at its thinnest point. Though it might seem silly, squeezing oneself down it is a fun, free and memorable activity for all ages.

ripatransone-sign

ripatransone-alley

Nearby Towns

A few km down the hill on the sea is Grottammare, a more modern town that wouldn’t be particularly memorable if not for its lovely shorefront. Marked by a wide promenade that’s perfect for walking, biking or just a leisurely stroll, it’s also great for people watching during the high season, when beaches packed with Italians suggest that this place is hardly undiscovered in Italy.

If crowded beaches don’t sound like a good time, head to Chalet Fabio towards the southern end of the walkway, just past the red clay tennis courts. Rent an umbrella and chairs from this family-friendly spot and spend a lazy day staring out at the sea, bathing in the calm waters and enjoying Fabio’s shellfish on the terrace.

Not far from Ripa is Offida, another quaint hill town worth a quick visit. Highlights include the magnificent church of Santa Maria della Rocca, whose brooding facade is accentuated by the ravine that falls drastically off the other three sides. (Which is, amazingly, said to have occurred after the church was built.)

Further afield is the town of Ascoli Piceno itself, known for travertine churches.

Wineries to Know

Though there are, not surprisingly, many wineries in the Ascoli Piceno region, for now I’ll focus specifically on those located in and around Ripatransone.

View of the Adriatic from Le Caniette
View of the Adriatic from Le Caniette

Perhaps the finest – in terms of wine – is Le Caniette, run by Giovanni Vagnoni, a fourth-generation winemaker. Though all the wines here were delicious, one standout was Io Sono Gaia (non sono Lucrezia), a name created by Vagnoni’s younger daughter. “Our Passerina is called Lucrezia, after my eldest daughter,” he tells me. “So people were always asking Gaia, my youngest, if she was Lucrezia. When I asked her to design a label for my new wine, this is what she gave me.”

iosonogaia

Cinabro, a red made exclusively from Bordò — an ancient biotype of Grenache that still grows in Marche — is the most notable red from Le Canniete (among a cadre of greats). Beyond the fascinating story of this grape — which I’ll save for another time — it is an elegant, nuanced and beguiling wine that’s both unique and unmistakably Italian.

The area’s important area winery is Tenuta Cocci Grifoni, former home of the late Guido Cocci Grifoni, the man known for bringing back the Pecorino grape from the edge of extinction and the driving force behind the growing Offida DOCG focused on said grape.

A brilliant glass-enclosed tasting room and balcony greets guests, who can sample Cocci Grifoni’s excellent line of Pecorino and red blends alongside locally-made salumi and other tasty snacks. We felt particularly honored to taste the first vintage (2013) of Guido Cocci Grifoni Pecorino, made from grapes grown exclusively in the “mother vineyard” where Cocci Grifoni began his Pecorino experiments.

griffone-bottles

Lastly is Colli Ripani, the large co-op in the region that produces both widely-available, supermarket-level wines as well as higher-end bottles worth seeking. Though not a particularly exciting place to visit (for the most part it is just another industrial wine factory), they do offer regular dinners and other wine events. Otherwise, be sure to order a bottle at one of the many cafes and trattorias in the nearby towns. In particular, the muscular Leo Ripanus red can hold its own with plenty of Napa Cabs, at about a quarter of the price.

#ItalianFWT

This post was part of the November #ItalianFWT twitter group, hosted by Danielle Oteri, on the topic of unique towns of Italy. Check out the other posts below:

Harvest in Montefalco

Mike Madaio Umbria, _reD 8 Comments
Harvest in Montefalco

As I weave through the packed Piazza del Comune in the center of Montefalco, joy – in the form of food, wine and their spoils – engulfs and consumes me. To my right, an old man is slicing prosciutto by hand from the leg, while hungry onlookers wait their turn for a slice. A few tractors over (that’s right, tractors), townsfolk sandwich salumi between wedges of fresh bread, handing out makeshift panini as fast as they can make them. As I spot an eager man slurping soup, even while the steamy sun beats down upon us – probably the only way to get a vegetable on this day – a woman thrusts a makeshift platter of biscotti in my face, desperate for takers.

festival1

A few yards away, tweens in flowing burlap dresses with sunflowers in their hair dance innocently, alongside an impromptu acoustic guitar jam. Onlookers reach for cameras to document younger girls pressing grapes the old fashioned way, rose-colored juice trickling between their toes into nearby pitchers. Sweaty boys engage in an intense soccer match with an invisible ball, darting in and out of longer legs. The teenagers, they’re roaming the backstreets, celebrating a day of freedom. Finally the old folks, wizened faces showing the toll of many vendemme, yet incapable of fully hiding that immortal sense of wonder.

It’s the culmination of Enologica 2015, the region’s annual harvest festival. A weeklong celebration that includes wine tastings, cooking demonstrations, seminars and more. The early part is more geared towards press and trade, with serious presentations, panels – one of which, on Sagrantino around the world, included yours truly, representing the ol’ US of A – and the like.

As interesting as tastings and discussions are, the jewel of the event is clearly the vendemmia, an old school, traditional festival that brings out locals and tourists alike. (Having just spent the week getting to know this amazing town, I must, of course, admit to looking down at the day-trippers with disdain.)

enologica montefalco vendemmia tractor

At 3pm on Sunday – actually a few minutes before, the only thing that ever started on time in Italy – tractors begin to enter the square, one by one, each representing a locality of grape growers in the region, 18 in all, plus one horse-pulled carriage and several donkeys. They’re decorated uniquely and carry anywhere from a few members of the tribe to a whole bunch of revelers.

As they creep into the square, horns blaring and motors revving, each tractor tries to outdo the next with bravado, cheer, daring or creativity. Singing is more about vocal histrionics, loud and enthusiastic if not on key. From our vantage at one of the cafes that line the square – where we camped out early to secure a spot (not free but worth it) – I notice a young boy’s terrified-yet-excited face as he sits on his dad’s lap, leading the tractor into town for the first time. Then comes a man we affectionately nickname “the Don,” sporting a shit eating grin, arms spread wide riding on the front of the tractor as it rolls in.

test

enologica montefalco vendemmia tractor

The towns with many children tend to be more mellow, sharing smiles and waves, while those without kids prove more raucous, “clinking” their plastic cups, slurring words (at 3pm), swaying back and forth. It’s a wonder if these people make it to sundown.

enologica montefalco vendemmia tractor

Once everyone’s had their turn to preen and showboat, food is served – no charge for anyone who’s there – as described above, alongside liberal amounts of Sagrantino wine (also gratis). The square becomes a wild, wonderful, free-for-all, onlookers and explorers sampling a variety of fare, enjoying a sunny, warm day, and sharing in the revelry. It’s a simple celebration, hearkening back to days of yore, a community celebrating its very lifeblood, and successful survival of another year.

Surely other towns in Italy (and beyond) welcome the harvest in a similar manner, but, standing in the middle of this mass of people, sharing smiles, cries of joy, and a shared purpose, it’s hard not to think — at least for a moment — that this is the most important one.

enologica

This post was my entry in the #ItalianFWT group’s #FallinItaly theme for October 2016. Check out the other entries below:

Rigatoni alla Gricia

Mike Madaio Lazio, _reD 1 Comment
Rigatoni alla Gricia

#VirtualSagra‘s recent spotlight on the eternal Spaghetti all’Amatriciana got me thinking about the holy trinity of Roman dishes: Amatrice’s famous contribution of course, alongside Carbonara and Cacio e Pepe. All quintessentially Roman with their balance of simplicity and flavor, classic recipes that naturally attract a certain amount of fervor and devotion. (And don’t even get me started about the additions!)

On my last visit to Rome, however, I tried another typical Roman pasta for the first time: Rigatoni alla Gricia. A dish that some — quite sensibly, in fact — refer to as the foundation for both Carbonara and Amatriciana. Others call it Amatriciana in Bianca. Me, I see it more as a cross between Carbonara and Cacio e Pepe. Either way, it simple and comforting yet rich, intense flavor fits the mold quite well.

Gricia is, essentially, Cacio e Pepe with guanciale. Carbonara without egg. Or Amatriciana without tomato. (I’ve fallen into the same trap!) In actuality, the latter is probably the most accurate, since many believe it was the precursor to the red sauce, before tomatoes were abundant available in the region. The name is also thought to come from Grisciano, a town just north of Amatrice.

guanciale

Gricia involves only a few ingredients. Pork (preferably guanciale, though pancetta is a reasonable substitute), Pecorino cheese, black pepper and pasta. That’s all. So simple, yet so luscious. As the Romans do best.

Another famously Roman aspect of this dish is controversy over its ingredients. Onions? White Wine? Italians take these seemingly minor ingredient suggestions as sacrosanct. Last year, when celebrity chef Carlo Cracco suggested adding onions to the dish on MasterChef Italia, it became headline material across the country. (It didn’t help that he’d, horrifyingly, suggested adding garlic to Amatriciana just days before.)

guanciale2

If we put those blasphemous additions aside for the moment, the technique is quite simple:

  1. Cook pasta
  2. Brown the guanciale over medium heat. (If you like you can add some EVOO or lard to get the process going, though it isn’t entirely necessary.)
  3. Add black pepper to pan.
  4. Add a ladel of pasta water to the pork.
  5. Mix in some grated hard Pecorino (I prefer an aged version other than Romano, which can be too salty.)
  6. Add pasta and cheese and mix. Use more pasta water if it sticks.
  7. Serve with more cheese on top.

As with our findings related to pairing wine with Carbonara, looks can be deceiving here. Just because it’s light in color doesn’t mean it’ll match to white wine. The fatty pork and the aged cheese suggest — nay, demand — a hearty red. Any quality Central Italian should do the trick; in our case, an IGT rosso from Montefalco matched quite well.

rigatonia alla gricia

New Wines in Old Country

Mike Madaio Puglia, _reD , 1 Comment
New Wines in Old Country

I recently connected online with Natalia Pezzone, who –along with her husband Nicola — is in the process of opening Cantina Primo Re, a boutique winery in the Salento region of Puglia that’s focused (for now) on indigenous reds. As so many wineries in Italy have been around for many years (sometimes centuries!), I thought it would be a good opportunity to learn about the trials and tribulations of opening a new one. Our conversation follows…

When was the idea for Cantina Primo Re originally conceived?
Since Nicola and I met in 2009 [in Argentina, where Natalia is from], we’ve always dreamed of having a small business to run together, and to avoid working for other companies. Because of Nicola’s strong passion for wine (that I quickly learned to share), it was an easy decision to open a winery. We had the [family] vineyards, we had the qualifications and international experience (Nicola holds a master degree in Viticulture and Enology), and we had the spirit. But we didn’t have the money!

A financial crisis was hitting southern Italy quite hard at the same time, and it was almost impossible to secure a job there. We traveled and lived in several different countries, working hard to save our money. As soon as we had enough, we moved back to Italy to realize our dream. It took us more than 5 years, but we did it! (Well, we’re almost there…)

As a non-Italian, what has your experience been with the infamous Italian bureaucracy?
Everybody thinks it is hard in their own country, but I’ve lived on several different continents, and can say without question that nothing comes close to Italian bureaucracy! Honestly, it’s the worst part of being in Italy.

Our wines are ready to go, carefully aging in barrels until the day we bottle and launch them in the market. Which was supposed to happen in August. Then in September. Then we had to say October. Do you know when we’ll be able to finally put our wines in the market? MARCH 2017. For several reasons – hard to understand and even harder to explain – we won’t have the authorization for starting the commercial activity until next spring. We HOPE.

A funny note: the only easy thing we had to do before launching our wines was getting registered by The Vegan Society. Do you know why was it simple? Because they’re British!!!!! Whatever step does not include Italians is a piece of cake!

cantinaprimore-view

Apart from the bureaucracy, what were your biggest challenges?
Another challenge for us was launching organic wines that were suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

We’re not the only ones that produce organic wines in Puglia, but we’re one of the few organic wineries in the area. It’s not the same to produce 20 different wines, of which one is organic, than to be completely organic. In our case, not only the vineyards but our olive trees, our vegetable lands, and even the aromatic herbs I grow in the garden. We produce ONLY organic food. I don’t understand these industrial wineries that launch an organic line of wines. What’s the point of growing one hectare of organic vineyard, if the other ones are not? It shows that they don’t actually believe in sustainable agriculture; they just do it for commercial reasons.

So the big challenge is to help our customers understand this difference, and how dedicated we are to all details and producing only high quality, healthy wines.

Why is it important to you to have vegan wines?
We shouldn’t have to talk about “vegan wine”; it’s like talking about “vegan lettuce”. Wine is a grape derivative, so shouldn’t it always be ok for vegans and vegetarians?

Yet we do, because many wineries – and this is something that a lot of people ignore – use additives and ingredients of an animal origin to produce wines: albumin, gelatin, isinglass, some lysozymes, etc. So a vegetable product, a derived from grapes, becomes something else. This forces us to demonstrate that our wines had none of these additives inside, because we want to ensure to everybody – not only vegans; we’re not even vegan ourselves – that our wines are made from grapes and nothing else. That’s why we registered our products with The Vegan Society, the oldest and only international association that created the word “vegan” in the ‘40s.

primo-re-grapes

Though there’s certainly a winemaking tradition in Puglia, one could argue it’s more known for bulk wines than fine wines. What is your take on the area as an up-and-coming spot?
We have in Puglia one of the largest areas of vineyards of all of Italy, and it’s true that traditionally wine growers have chosen quantity upon quality. Historically, many northern Italian wines were blended with juice from Puglia, which offers high natural sugar levels and adds structure, body and flavor to wine produced in colder areas.

This situation, however, started to change around 20 years ago, when many producers from Puglia began to understand that that our land has everything to produce high quality wines. Now there are many excellent wineries that produce only fine wines, and people are recognizing them more and more.  And we’re proud to be part of this movement!

You originally went to Veterinary School. Did you ever think you’d be opening a small winery in southern Italy?
Absolutely no! Wine wasn’t even that important for me until I met Nicola. What I did now is that my previous career wasn’t making me happy. I used to be a researcher who worked in laboratories, and staying inside a lab all day was killing me. I dreamed to work in the fields, with livestock, but it’s very difficult to get a job like that when you’re a woman, at least in Argentina.

One day I just decided that my life so far wasn’t the kind of life I wanted to live, and gave up everything. I quit my jobs and started a journey – literally and spiritually as well – that took me to live in different countries, with different people and made me realize that what I really wanted was to have something of my own to grow and take care of. Something that represents a real challenge where it’s up to me (or us, in this case) whether it succeeds or not. That’s what Primo Re Winery is today: a big challenge and the more important project so far in my life, where I can put all my effort and knowledge.

primo-re

What, if anything, from your previous career are you able to apply to this new one?
A lot of things! Obviously not my knowledge of medicine, but as a Vet I was quite atypical anyway. I used to write a lot of projects, papers, presentations, and learned English as all researchers must do. I’ve been writing since I was a kid and it’s one of the things I enjoy the most (as you can see….!). I also have strong computer skills and I’m very practical and love problem solving – a consequence of my previous career. Vets have to solve problems quickly and effectively, as there is rarely time to lose.

So for Primo Re, I created the whole brand concept, the graphic & marketing material, and developed the website and e-shop. I also manage all the social networks and wrote 100% of the words that you will read about us. We saved a lot of money actually because we split all the tasks: Nicola works in the vineyards and the winery, and I do all the brand and communication. So far it’s working!

What’s the most surprising thing that happened along the way?
We were amazed – and still are every day — by the great response we’ve gotten from people that believe in us and joined this project since the beginning. I’m talking specially about our Wine Club (“Cultori del Vino” — wine lovers), that we have developed through our social networks. It’s a different concept; a wine club where the emphasis is not on sales but on building a community of wine enthusiasts.

I posted things like “Do you love wine and writing? If yes, contact us“, and started to receive emails from the curious. I didn’t know what to expect, but I could not believe the large number of emails I received! I explained early and often that it wasn’t a job offer, so people that wrote me were just looking for fun, not money. I even met one of our film reviewers thanks to this post, and coincidentally she lives in a town near to mine. We’ve become friends.

There’s much more that you’ll see when our full website goes live; stories of wine and food, content about related books, music and movies. The key concept is that ALL this content is created BY wine drinkers themselves, not FOR them. This is not for selling wine, but for creating a club of people that shares our love for wine — 300 so far and we still don’t have a bottle to sell. I knew it was a good idea — I’m passionate about the sharing economy — but I’m extremely surprised and satisfied about how fast this idea was understood. I guess people like our ideas!

primo-re-natalia-nicola

#VirtualSagra

Mike Madaio News, _reD 6 Comments
#VirtualSagra

Update (10/19): World Pasta Day 2016 (October 25) falls on the 2 month anniversary of the Central Italy Earthquake that shook the Rieti province and completely destroyed the historical city of Amatrice. A NYC-based company called Eatiamo is celebrating and helping to keep the donations coming… for more info, read their 5 Ways You Can Make a Difference.

This weekend (August 27-28, 2016) would’ve been the 50th (!) Amatriciana Festival in Amatrice, the Italian town most affected by this devastating earthquake. To show our support, my idea is that we participate in a #VirtualSagra this weekend. Interested? Read the steps below and share with friends and contacts! Let’s make this happen!

The weekend is over and #VirtualSagra was a huge success! If you didn’t participate, that’s ok. The affected areas need long-term support, so please continue to cook Amatriciana and donate funds!

Steps to Join in:

  1. Donate to earthquake relief – suggestions:
  2. Cook Amatriciana, or order it at a restaurant — This great post by Judy discusses the technique
  3. Open any Central Italian red wine (or appropriately-themed beverage)
  4. Take photo
  5. Share as widely as possible on social media with #VirtualSagra

#VirtualSagra Coverage:

This Tagboard shows some of the social media posts supporting the cause.

Bloggers came together to celebrate and donate. Here are a few of the great posts that covered the event:

Plus, these media outlets promoted the fundraiser:

Thanks to everyone who donated!